Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Chez Francois expands ...

WashPo's Going Out Gurus report that L’Auberge Chez Francois is expanding with a 30-seat brasserie.

According to GOG:

Jacques Haeringer says he’s making the venerable L’Auberge Chez Francois -- popular for its Alsatian setting and six-course dinner menu -- more accessible for the chef’s “friends and neighbors who would like to come more often,” by opening Jacques’ Brasserie below the formal restaurant in Great Falls.

The 30-seat dining room and lounge (yes, the restaurant now has a bar) quietly opened over the weekend and serves tarts flambees, lobster bisque, fresh oysters, hanger steak, chicken in wine sauce and trout with almonds Tuesday through Sunday evenings.

Getting my drink on ...

So what is Spoon and Fork DC drinking these days? Well, since I've cut down on my beer intake (gotta prep for the beach, yo), I've been returning to red wine.

I attended a Pahlmeyer wine tasting last month (they're out of Sonoma but there were here in DC to tempt and titillate us East Coasters) and discovered two wines that I can't wait to uncork. Deep, rich, delicious ... these wines are a must-have for any cellar.

The first --


2008 PAHLMEYER PINOT NOIR SONOMA COAST
Technical Notes
  • Harvested: August 30 to September 9, 2008
  • Vineyards: Pahlmeyer Wayfarer Farm & Hallberg
  • Bottled: December 17, 2009
  • Composition: 100% Pinot noir
  • Alcohol: 14.9%
  • Winemaker: Erin Green

Winemaking Notes
The grape clusters were hand-sorted, and once de-stemmed, the berries were sorted again by hand on the way to tank.  After four to five days of pre-fermentation cold maceration in small open-top fermentors, the fruit began 100% native wild yeast fermentation.  Two to three weeks later, the fruit was gently pressed and moved to barrel where it finished primary and secondary fermentations.  The wine continued to age in 67% new French oak for fifteen months and it was bottled unfined and unfiltered. 
Tasting Notes
“Medium ruby in color, the profuse nose of the 2008 Pahlmeyer Pinot Noir shows raspberry, red plum, light cedar and damp earth.  Vibrant red fruit lends to a lively, layered palate that lingers on and on.” – Erin Green, Winemaker
And the second -- 
2008 PAHLMEYER MERLOT NAPA VALLEY
Technical Notes
  • Harvested: September 24 to October 3, 2008
  • Vineyards: Pahlmeyer Waters Ranch & Rancho Chimiles
  • Bottled: April 19, 2010
  • Composition: 91% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Alcohol: 15.2%
  • Winemaker: Erin Green

Winemaking Notes
The grape clusters were hand-sorted, and once de-stemmed, the berries were sorted again by hand on the way to tank. After four to five days of pre-fermentation cold maceration in small open-top fermentors, the fruit began 100% native wild yeast fermentation. Two to three weeks later, the fruit was gently pressed and moved to barrel where it finished primary and secondary fermentations. The wine continued to age in 80% new French oak – a combination of Taransaud and St. Martin barrels – for eighteen months. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered.
Tasting Notes
“Plum, cocoa and essence of roasted coffee beans mingle with blackberry, bing cherry, pomegranate, fresh raspberry compote and hints of lavender. Soft and plush yet solid in structure.” – Erin Green, Winemaker
Ratings
Robert Parker, Wine Advocate #186, December 2009: 
“One of the few world-class Merlots in Napa Valley has always come from Pahlmeyer, and the 2008 looks to be no exception. Inky purple-colored, the wine offers up chocolatey espresso/mocha/cocoa notes as well as plenty of plum, black cherry and blacker fruits. Medium to full-bodied, with silky tannins, surprising elegance, and good richness…it is very stylish and should drink well for 10-15 years.” 91 points
And now they're both MINE! Mwah ha ha. 

Monday, April 25, 2011

WashPo introduces new locavore column - "Sourced"

The April 12th edition of The Washington Post included something new - the first installation of a new monthly column by David Hagedorn called "Sourced." According to their PR contact, Sources "focuses on food producers in the Washington area and recipes to highlight their ingredients."

The first column, available here, features Craig Rogers of Border Spring Farm in Patrick County, VA.
"Rogers raises grass-fed, Animal Welfare Approved, certified naturally grown Katahdin and Texel sheep," the WashPo PR contact said. "He breeds them to create lamb with a sweet fat profile and a delicate, yet earthy, meat flavor."

Restaurants dishing up Rogers' lamb include Bibiana, Bourbon Steak and Volt.

Friday, April 1, 2011

Hill Country Barbecue serves up finger-licking good Texas BBQ

Hill Country Barbecue
410 Seventh St. NW, Washington, DC

The foodie wires have been buzzing for a while about the impending arrival of Manhattan import Hill Country Barbecue. Styled as a "barbecue market" inspired by "the grand, century-old meat markets in Central Texas that have become legendary barbecue joints," Hill Country offers up dry-rubbed meats smoked low and slow with "post oak wood shipped specially from Texas." All meat is then hand carved at Hill Country, and available for order by the slice, the rib, or the link.

I've encountered some resistance from people about the success of a barbecue market imported from New York City. So before I get too far, let me lay the background - Hill Country's executive chef is Elizabeth Karmel, aka "the grilling goddess." Karmel is originally from North Carolina, where she was raised on barbecue from restaurants, markets, roadside stands, neighbors' houses, etc. Her CV is exceedingly long, listing numerous accolades including grilling cookbooks, appearances on the Food Network and other shows, and the position of "Southern food specialist" at the Institute of Culinary Education (ICE) in Manhattan. She even serves as a judge for the Kansas City Barbecue competition.

So I was excited to give Hill Country a whirl - and I wasn't disappointed. Hill Country offers its food by the pound, so the hubs and I ordered 2 lb. of pork spare ribs, a side of beer-braised cowboy pinto beans, and a side of campfire baked beans (OK, we were incredibly hungry). Our friends ordered the smokey chipotle deviled eggs, which they graciously shared with us.


The eggs were some of the best deviled eggs I have ever eaten. Smokey, with a nice taste of yolk and a hint of relish flavor. For the sides - I loved my pinto beans with their earthy, smoky flavor, and the baked beans were equally tasty, though a little more sweet.


But I'm saving the best for last - the meat (that's what she said). The dry-rubbed spare ribs - three ribs comprised 1 lb. - were rich with the perfect percentage of meat to fat. The meat was smoky, but not so smoked that the flavor prevented the taste of the pork from coming through (that's my pet peeve with smoked salmon, when you lose the salmon taste to an overwhelming smokiness).

I skipped adding BBQ sauce to really taste the pork, and I was not disappointed. This pig had been cooked with some serious love. The pork was damn good. So good, I may have licked my fingers. I'll definitely be back.


Hill Country Barbecue Market on Urbanspoon